Sunday, December 6, 2009

Surfstoke!

The bump is growing and growing and growing. It is still not big, but big enough for all my shorts to feel way too tight.. It is harder than I thought, this weight gaining thing. I mean it is not like I could go on a diet and shape up. I am actually just going to get bigger and bigger and then some.. So pucker up!
Well, I had myself a little Charlotte-esque revelation where I decided that I wouldn't let a pregnancy get in the way of doing something I love. So I went surfing for the first time since I found out. Which means that it was the first time in two months or so. I took the longboard and actually listened to my husband's pointers about the spot he chose for us. It was AWESOME! Not very big or anything, but very light winds and only one other guy except for us. I caught plenty of waves and got my stoke back! I am still homesick, but I think I will survive... The doctor said it would be OK for me to do anything I used to do before, but of course be careful. And careful I was!
After some fun surf we went into Lahaina to meet an old surflegend, Mr. Mark Occhilupo, who once held the World Title. He was a really nice guy, a bit shorter than I thought, and he happily signed a poster for us and posed for some pictures (that might make their way here).
So it was a good day and many ways! And tomorrow is Monday and we are off for two days. The surf is supposed to be humongous so hopefully we will go a look at Jaws and the guys with the big balls. And then continue on to Hana for a nice weekend of camping!
A hui hou!

1 comment:

Mike said...

Sounds like a fun day. Saw the big Northshore surf on TV yesterday. 40 to 50 foot faces. Woohoo!!